Thursday, October 25, 2018


The poet laureate is unknown in his own town
This was 1985, I was then working with Bokaro Steel and beginning to realize that I could write tolerable poems in English. Sunday Magazine of The Telegraph had a special appeal for me. The renowned poet Jayanta Mahapatra edited and published new poets in English on that one page every week. He was among the doyen of English poetry in India along with Nissim Ezekiel, Pritish Nandi, Kamala Das, A K Ramanujam, Keki Daruwala and others. He was, interestingly, a Professor of Physics and had been awarded the Sahitya Akademi Award for English poetry. 
Like all poet-aspirants, I used to assiduously send my poems to The Telegraph, fervently hoping that some day one of my poems would grace the poetry page. Six months of opening the Sunday paper with great expectations, and feel the dejection became almost a weekly routine. In sheer frustration, I wrote a rather acidic letter to Mr Mahapatra asking him whether he actually read the poems, and what did it take for an unpublished poet to break in to his editorial bastion. 
Surprisingly, within a week came this inland letter, with very kind advice to read more poetry, write more, how pain was the lot of all poets and lastly, not to lose hope. In subsequent letters, he traced his late entry in to poetry. One Sunday, there it was, my first poem in the Sunday Magazine! I continued to write poems, send the to different magazines, had the occasional success. Much later did I realise that I had shared the poetry pages of The Telegraph Sunday Magazine with some poets who would later emerge as stars in the firmament of English poetry in India- Tabish Khair, Makarand Paranjpe! I was juggling my job and an evening M Tech from IIT-ISM that required me to travel 120km round trip from Bokaro Steel City and Dhanbad. Poetry continued and the zenith of my 'poetic career' was when Jayanta Mahapatra chose five of my poems called 'Cityscapes' and that entire page was dedicated to my poems, instead of five poets who got published every week! A couple of years later, Kamala Das published three of my poems in the poetry page of Femina. Heady days for a poet whose profession was engineering in a steel plant!
Letters went back and forth, mine seeking advice, probably cribbing about the lot of poets. His letters in pearl like script, perfectly formed with nary a correction, would be empathetic, caring and often, sharing his own experiences of failure. These letters never ceased to inspire me. He was a benign Drona to my ardent Ekalavya!
In January 1989, we were passing through Cuttack during a car trip to Chilika Lake. I begged my friends for an extra couple of hours, and rushed to the area called Tinkoniya Bagicha, where he lived. In my excitement, while buying cigarettes I left my camera at the shop and rushed off. Greater disappointment awaited me- the poet was out of station! I remember the house having a beautiful, well-kept garden with a clump of ornamental bamboo, shrubs and flowering plants. His wife Jyotsna was very graceful and kind, and offered to show me his study. Thus ended my attempt to meet the poet.
Years rolled on, my poetic career dwindled, because somewhere in early 1990s Telegraph closed its poetry page, so did Femina. They had more interesting things like semi-clad paragons of female pulchritude to publish for the more 'discerning' readers! Poetry does not sell, I concluded. 
My letters to Jayanta Mahapatra tapered off, busy as I was with my career, my foray in to doctoral research at IIT Kharagpur, followed by career change from steel company to academia! The font of poetry dwindled to a sporadic dribble. One day I read that he had been awarded the Padma Shri, and later he had returned the honour in protest of rising intolerance in India! 
In 2015, I realised that my career was nearing retirement and the unrequited love for poetry came back with a rush. I compiled my poems, got Jayanta Mahapatra' s telephone number through an old friend from Cuttack. I called him up, and to my surprise, he remembered me well enough to track my movement over the last nearly two decades. He readily agreed to read my poems, and I sent him a bound manuscript. A month later came a generous foreword, typed on his own manual typewriter with minute details of many poems explained! Thrilled as I was, it completely eluded me that he had not signed the document. A famous worldwide publishing house returned my manuscript, with a note of rejection, "...... foreword by Jayanta Mahapatra notwithstanding". So much for my bucket-list of publishing my book of poems!
One morning I just called him and asked him whether he would be free to meet me for a few hours during the next Sunday. When he agreed, I promptly booked the tickets, booked a hotel near the Cuttack railway station. Saturday I boarded the train for the four hour journey from Kharagpur to Cuttack. Sunday morning was spent in getting a print out of his foreword. It was around 1.45pm that I landed up in Tinkoniya Bagicha. The place is named after a small triangular park. Where is the park, I thought, as I looked around and trying to remember the location of his house. The park had vanished under a load of garbage, and an ugly electrical transformer lorded over this once green triangle! 
The next one hour was spent in enquiring about the location of his house, at a paan shop, a tailor, a grocery, auto rickshaw driver, tea shop, sweet shop, assorted pedestrians and so on in a two hundred metre radius of the park that was a garbage dump and existed as an address. To help I added, professor at Ravenshaw College, famous poet, Padma Shri, and an old inhabitant of this locality. Responses fell under, "Jayanta who?", "Do not know!", "Not in this locality" and "Are you sure it is Tinkoniya Bagicha?" Thereafter, one helpful individual pointed out that there was one reputed lawyer, Jayanta Rath and perhaps I had mistaken the surname. While I was cycling through Rath, Mahanty, Swain, Panda and host of Odiya surnames with first name Jayanta who probably lived in this area, realisation dawned that the poet laureate, feted abroad, awarded and honoured with  Padmashri in 2009 for literature  (which he returned in 2015 as a gesture of protest against 'growing intolerance'. of the country) was virtually unknown hundred meters from his home of sixty years! So much for preserving our cultural heritage and remembering our cultural icons!
Overhearing my persistent enquiries, a casual bystander walked up to me and asked, "Poet and professor, you said, famous, aah!" Then followed very specific directions to a an old gate in a small lane which I must have crossed at least four times over the past hour!
The gate, the garden overgrown and neglected, especially the ornamental bamboo near the entrance brought back memories of the visit twenty nine years ago. The poet greeted me warmly, as if we had met only the other day, and not for the first time. What ensued was a long conversation, mostly mine -questions seeking explanation. All my pent up angst about poetry and life in general spilled out in a torrent and with his abiding patience, Jayantad da responded.
What was amazing that Jayanta da, just a month away from his 90th birthday, had overcome his grief of losing his wife about ten years ago and the harshest blow of losing his sixty two year old son, his only child, two years ago! He continued to lead a meaningful life, write poems, correspond and meet people. Amazing fortitude! My salute to the poet and above all, superb human being!

Thursday, September 20, 2018

Life and Circle of Karma

Life and ageing
Some people, with age
grow mellow, acquire
a distinct flavour,
like whisky.
Others, turn acidic and bitter,
like bad wine
turning into vinegar!

Circle of karma
Long ago, in a moment
of unreasoned fear, and helplessness
that gave rise to childish anger,
I had spewed out a sentence, an accusation
hurtful to the core and painful.
Only the other day
in defending a 'cause'
you spat out words,
a vicious indictment.
In fifty years, this completes the
circle of karma.
--
If I could forget the anniversary
of my mother's passing away;
I'm certain, you'd forget mine too
and that  would complete the
circle of karma 
--
A stranger had 
shown kindness, offered 
a few words of encouragement, 
quite unexpected, almost
en passant.
I try to offer the same,
small gestures, a small help
and hope  to complete a positive
circle of karma. 
--

Why Bengalis love the humble tuber

Potato is a tuber called solanum tuberosum, brought to Europe from South America in the 16th century by the Spanish conquistadores. The English called it potato, after the Spanish name patata. Its cultivation spread across Europe over the centuries. Some sociologists have even called it the fuel for the industrial revolution. The Portuguese introduced potatoes to the west coast in India in late seventeenth century and called it batata. The British introduced it to Bengal in the 1800s when they started the residency at Kolkata and slowly enlarged their reach. They called it aloo, and the etymology is uncertain. It travelled through Bihar, UP to the northern hills by the end of the nineteenth century, and even reached Tibet through the trade routes.  Potato is the fourth largest crop in the world, and India is the second largest producer. China and India together produce close to 40% of the world's output.
On being the first to get it from the gora sahebs, and finding that it grows well, Bengalis fell in love with this lowly tuber. They are obsessed with potatoes and use them in virtually every possible dish, except may be the chutney! Starting with a breakfast of luchi (puri) and aloor tarkari or aloor dum, through lunch which can include the humble aloo bhatey(mashed potatoes), aloo bhaja (fried potatoes), and be included in every other dish including machher jhol (fish curry) or even mangshor jhol (mutton curry). Bengalis add potatoes to thicken the mutton jhol, considered almost runny by northerners!
The aloo bhaja needs special mention- it can range from diced, cut straight like french fries, rings, and even thinnest straws- each with its own set of spices. The season's first baby potatoes fried in their skin is a treat in itself. Alu-posto (potato and paste of poppy seed husk) is another dish which makes almost every Bengali salivate. Nothing compares to the sheer bliss of a post-lunch siesta on a Sunday, especially if the menu includes some posto dish like aloo-posto, jhingey (spined gourd)-posto or poshto-bora. Posto has a sordid history. The British employed all unholy methods to force the farmers in the Gangetic plains to grow only poppy, to extract opium which was then shipped to China and exchanged for silver and tea. This unholy trade led to the so-called Boxer Rebellion, and the word 'gunboat diplomacy' was born when British warships bombarded  the Imperial Chinese fleet near Hong Kong to continue with their opium trade. Unable to grow vegetables, some Bengali farmer may have discovered that the husk of the poppy seed can be used to prepare a curry and it had mild sedative properties. So posto became a part of the Bengali cuisine, under duress!
The evening snacks can revolve round aloo chop or potato slices dipped in gram flour (besan) batter and  fried with slices of brinjal and seasonal vegetables. Dinner can be an encore for the curries in lunch.
Legend has it that the last Nawab of Oudh, Wajid Ali Shah was banished to what was then outskirts of Kolkata by the British. His favourite khansama added potato to the famous Awadhi biryani to increase the volume, as the dire straits of the imprisoned nawab did not allow for much mutton. And so, the lowly potato ensconced itself  as an integral part of the biryani recipe of Kolkata, and thus giving it a character of its own. This is particularly disliked by the lovers of Hyderabadi Biryani, and frowned upon by the purists of the Awadhi biryani. But then the Awadhi cuisine also looks down upon the Hyderabadi cousin for using too many spices and essence in abundance!
Although aloo paratha is a staple food in entire northern India, made in fried or tandoor form round the round clock and round the year- northerners actually protest if there are too many potato dishes! Bihar suffered tremendously during the long rule of Laloo Yadav. He is said to have proclaimed that "Laloo would rule Bihar as long as there are aloo in the stuffing of singhara (samosa to the rest of India)". Fortunately, aloo still remains the favourite stuffing in singharas in Bihar and Bengal, but Laloo has long since lost the political battle, and is shuttling from one jail to another, and being probably fed aloo subzi in some jail.
The Mumbaikar loves his batata vada, but would probably baulk if too much of it appeared in his daily diet. In Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Andhra and Telangana all masala dosas receive a filling of mainly aloo, but it is not preferred  as a vegetable to be included in the daily diet! Which is strange, because these states seem to have accepted tomatoes, carrots, beetroot, french beans- all later imports, and some of them recent, in to their cuisine. So the poor aloo languishes at the fringes and is out of favour. Incidentally these four states together hardly produce any potato! Bengal or is it Bangla now, is probably the second largest potato crop on the country and the four southern states hardly produce any significant crop of potatoes.

Thursday, July 19, 2018

Conversations with cab drivers


Most of us while travelling in cabs, over distances long or short, tend to treat the driver as non-existent; as if we are in our personal cocoons and the driver was outside that barrier, and hence does not matter. From the flip side, the driver, if not stone deaf, is privy to all our conversations either over phone or that with our co-passengers and witness to our emotions, expressions and behaviour, aurally or over the rear-view mirror, if not completely blind! All company executives will agree, the root of the company grapevine starts with the boss's driver!
I  always find excuses to start a conversation with the cab-driver, especially when travelling alone, and more often than not, found a font of human experiences, and surprisingly, wisdom. There are some laconic examples too, who simply refuse to go along.
This was late summer of 1997, and my Sardarji driver in the 45 minutes from Calcutta Airport gave an exposition on how Gary Kasparov, World no.1 in chess, was beaten by Deep Blue, the IBM computer. That incident was initiation in this hobby.
During the demonetization, I was in a cab in Mumbai and a call came. The driver apologized and said, "Gharwali kaa phone hai, lena parega, sahab"- "Sir, I have to take this phone from my wife". As expected, the lady of the house was complaining about lack of cash, and the consequent problems. The driver very patiently explained that he was driving, and he could either earn cash by driving or stand in a queue to get it. With a mild sigh and a smile, he explained to me the link between this act of the government and black economy etc. He assured me that this was a temporary discomfort which all honest Indian citizen must endure for the greater good of the country. I laughed and told him that if we were in the jam much longer, the fare would be more than what cash I had. Both of us laughed.
Last year my cab driver dropping me at the airport, a young educated youth from the hinterland promised to stand for state elections in 10 years as an MLA. He counted off the milestones towards his goal. Amazing! 
Of all the places, at Aalborg, Denmark I was being dropped at the airport by a Polish immigrant. The topic went right to Mr. Amitabh Bachhan, the moment my nationality was established, and then a critical review of the movie 'Pink', its plot, cinematography, Big B's baritone  all in the 30-minute ride!
Last month, I called up a radio cab over the app at Kolkata. The allotted driver, the confirmation message said was good for an  interesting chat. I politely asked him whether this was his own car. I was treated to an insightful journey through- performance of Swift Dzire versus Hyundai Xcent Versus Toyota Etios; the Ola-Uber business models  and how they had slowly captured the market through slowly changing the incentives of owner-drivers. The most interesting thing he said was that many educated, unemployed  youth find it a dignified profession with social acceptance. The stigma is gone and he said he enjoyed talking to his passengers. He asked me what I did for a living, and topic somehow veered to motorcycles, and what else, Royal Enfield Bullet! At the end of the journey all Rs 423 of it ended with two proud owners of Bullet motorcycles parting as friends!
Last week I was in the northern reaches of the country, where a fellow  academic had asked me and some other oldies to for help in faculty selection. Half a day was spare and four of us hopped onto a cab to visit the local sights. I was having a conversation with my friend about the thousands of small sub-plots which made Mahabharata such an epic, and that makes Paradise Lost look like a short story! I mispronounced a name, and the driver with a soft cough and apology pronounced it correctly! Then we got in to this animated debate as to why Babruvahan, Arjun's son by Chitrangada, the princess of Manipur did not fight in the war against Kauravas; why Uloopi's son Iravan did; why did Barbarik, Ghatotkach's son and Bhima's grandson, agree to get beheaded, and so forth! What ensued was a treat for those who love this epic, and this man had an encyclopedic knowledge, and that was humbling! On a parting note, he said he was a Yadava, and Yadavas have always had a major role in Indian politics since ancient times. We parted as fellow readers of Mahabharata, with an agreement to continue with this discussion in my next visit.
I do not look forward to having driverless cabs with AI in the driver's seat, no matter what Google or Tesla do!

Saturday, November 25, 2017

Conversations with total strangers

Conversations with total strangers
With the rise of personal devices, these machines are ubiquitous and seem to have sneaked their way into every aspect our our lives. Except the hours we sleep, their persistent presence make us their slaves. Whether checking mails, putting up selfies, notifying the world about where we have been, what we have seen or eaten and who all we have met, they rule our lives.
With the phone constantly badgering our attention and overwhelming our senses, real conversations are becoming rarer, and would perhaps become extinct soon. The casual conversation with strangers, with growing paranoia, does not happen anymore.
It was a pleasant surprise when the distinguished looking gentleman, with a lady of obvious European descent, sitting at the next table in one of the reputed hotels on the Marine Drive, Mumbai for breakfast, smiles at me and asks, "Are you from here or travelling for business?"
The gentleman was wearing a khadi waistcoat (bundee), casual Kurta and churidaar and chappals. The lady was wearing a modest trouser suit. When he spoke to her, cutting through the mild east coast accent, I thought there was this western India accent- Rajasthan or Gujarat? With the lady, obviously the wife, as she was ordering his breakfast with the implicit authority that only wives exhibit. Well I said to myself, "He would be in his middle-70s and she in to her late-60s at least; he would have made his way to the US of A in the early 1970s to do his masters, and stayed back. His chappals were a dead giveaway. It was his small gesture of reasserting his roots."
It turned out he was a rather well known artist, Gujarati by birth, had gone to USA in 1962 for his masters in fine arts from Pennsylvania. Later did I find out that his paintings adorned Guggenheim and many famous art museums, private and corporate collections including Exxon, Volvo etc. He was indeed world famous!
They both proved me wrong, he was 83 and she was 77! He spoke of the need for sponsoring arts and imbibing the sense of arts and appreciating our old history of art and culture among Indian youth. He lamented how religion was destroying the basic tenet of universal brotherhood. He wandered off to explain how there were scientific evidence of genetic traits of the inhabitants of a village in Tamil Nadu were identical with those in a village in Africa; how similar were the architectural designs from the Mayan civilisation with the designs of the master architect Maya (Ravana' father-in-law, planner of Lanka of Ramayana and also that of Indraprastha mentioned in Mahabharata)! The conversation meandered to art, culture and conversations. He lamented the fact that we do not realise that life is so short and still people do not talk to each other and shirk spread goodwill and love and affection through simple conversation! I had catching up to do with reading the voluminous documents for a board meeting and he had appointments to keep at the nearby art gallery where his work was being exhibited. So we parted as friends.
Inspired by his advocacy for conversations with total strangers, I went out for a smoke. I saw an obviously middle age European couple sitting on steps and smoking. He had lurid tattoos on his rather burly arms. I sat down next to the gentleman and politely asked him about his tattoos, and whether they were painful when being created. The gentleman smiled disarmingly and said they indeed were quite painful and that he had them done when he was fifteen. They had taken a full week of being under the needle and he had lived with them ever since. They were in India for seventeen days on a trip of a lifetime, visited Delhi, Jaipur, Varanasi and Mumbai was their last port of call and this was their last day in India.They were from Manchester and he had been a postman and delivery driver for his entire life. I confessed that I had always dreamt of getting a tattoo, however small and definitely not lurid, but never could screw up enough courage! He said that their visit to Varanasi was a mind blowing experience and he would never forget it.So ended my morning with conversations with two sets of complete strangers, whom I may never meet again, but strangely I am filled with a sense of joy of living and connecting with other human beings and enriched for it!

Friday, October 20, 2017

Visit to the Greek island of Evia

Visit to the island of Evia
Who would forego the opportunity to visit a Greek island with a Greek, especially if it was his native village? My old friend Professor Evangelos Afendras offered to take me to his native village of Papades on the island of Evia, just off the mainland. Evia is a large island, long and sits at a north-west to south-east just off the coast in the Aegean Sea. As always, every journey, even the shortest walk with Evangelos turns in to a history lesson! The ancient name of the island was Euboea, and the name means rich in cattle, an island you find good beef. The Euripus strait that separates it from the mainland is  very narrow; so narrow that the bridge is hardly 200 metres long. Strangely though, the sea flows through the strait at extreme speeds like a river, and reverses directions every six hours or so, depending upon the tide.
The capital of Evia is Xalkida or Chalkida (known at different times as Chalcidice, Chalcis), is just across the bridge. Evangelos tells me that it means bronze, and that this ancient town was famous for its bronze equipment from ancient times.
So we took a bus from Athens to Xalkida and the journey took almost two hours and Euro 7.50. Papades being in the interior at the north-west tip, and 103km away and another nearly two hours away from Xalkida, the buses were limited to twice a day. With some two and a half hours in hand we decided to see a bit more of Xalkida, before getting on to the bus for Papades.
The aqueduct at Xalkida attests to its antiquity. We took a short bus ride to the promenade of Xalkida . One side of the promenade was the narrowest part of the strait and slowly it widened to be a part of Aegean. On the promenade stands a statue of Evangelos's grand uncle on his mother's side, venerable Anastasios Papanastasiou, who was a prominent leader of the struggle of independence against the Ottoman Empire. Evia at one time was even ruled by the Venetians and an old fort stands testimony to their rule! Then it passed on to Ottomans Turks.
Lunch by the bus station was Fix beer (established in 1876 no less in Evia!), Spanakotiro (cheese and spinach roll) and pita bread. 
The bus rolled in and a small forty winks, curvy hill roads lined with pine trees(which reminded me of Uttarakhand roads) and we were in Papades in less than two hours.
Papades, Evangelos told me, had a total of 180 inhabitants and a good one third to one quarter had the surname 'Afendras' and hence by definition, his cousins! We landed at a taverna and started with a cup of coffee. The taverna was run by a stolid lady Argyro and it was designed and erected by her brother Lakis.   Argyro apparently sustained herself on coffee and cigarettes! The tavern was uniquely designed with driftwood, pine boards. The design merits a lot of discussion because of the use of rather unusual material. Lakis was apparently the village handyman, a happy mix of mason,architect, plumber all rolled in one. His design sensibilities are amazing for a man who has just about finished school in a remote village on an island, with no formal training. The bar counter was made of pine boards, the smaller tables too were made from a mix of pine boards and driftwood. Even the lamp holders outside were assembled out of pieces of driftwood.
Within one hour or so a good two dozen people passed by. All such comers welcomed my friend with hugs and kisses and torrents of, you guessed it Greek, and it was all Greek to me! One middle aged lady shrieked, hugged and kissed Evangelos, and followed up with a torrent and soon had tears rolling down her cheeks. She apparently remembered, so translated my friend, how he used to toss her up in the air and catch her when they were both children. The reunion was very touching and had me surreptitiously wiping a tear.

Thanks to Evangelos, a friend of a cousin, or was it the the cousin of a friend, who agreed to rent out his cottage with two beds to us. Interestingly, he had left the keys on the door! The cottage was beautifully constructed of stone and the inside had two beds and a small kitchenette. Freshened up we set off on a discovery of Papades, for me! One taverna, a dozen cousins or friends, boisterous welcomes and I lost track of names and relations, two shots of ouzo on ice with salted sardines and tiny pieces of squid, olives for me; another taverna,  a repeat of the goodies, and it was evening. Ouzo, for the uninitiated, is the national drink of Greece and is classified as an aperitif with a strong aniseed (saunf) flavour and turns milky when water is added. Believe you me, two or more, and it gets you buzzing! By the time we reached the taverna where we were expected to have dinner, I was little buzzy and the world decidedly seemed a good place with  sweet breeze from the Aegean under starry skies. This taverna was run by a beautiful young lady Morphia (nickname derived from Evamorfia). Apparently she had nursed and taken care of the owner in his final days, another cousin of Evangelos, and had received the taverna as a thank you from the owner. By then I had learnt the Greek for 'thank you'- "xalista". The Greek "h" apparently is pronounced "kh", something our urdu 'ख'. The dinner was a fantastic treat from me: pita bread dipped in olive oil, a large piece of fried baby shark accompanied by salad of cucumber and herbs tossed in balsamic vinegar. The lady owner Morfia, added a dessert of stewed plum in honey, heavenly! This was followed by Greek liqueur called 'rakho-melo', where rakho is the local liquor and melo is honey. Divine! The kind Morphia also packed a small satchel full of bread, feta cheese, dried figs and a thick syrupy preserve of plum for our breakfast.
Evangelos, the linguist that he is,  tells me the word 'rakho' is the etymological root for the word in English, 'arrack' which means country liquor. 'Melo' is the sweet as honey part of drama as in 'melodrama' or that of a song-'melody'!

The return journey turned even more spiritual, as Evangelos met more of his country cousins/friends at one taverna on the way back. Someone suggested I try the Greek cognac Metaxa, and we have a serious difference of opinion here. Evangelos swears I had three shots of the potent brandy, at one Euro per shot of 60 ml plus, and I distinctly remember having two! Anyway, I did walk back to our abode and soon I was in the embrace of Morpheus, aided by the various libations imbibed over the evening- ouzo, rakho-melo and  Metaxa!

The next morning was glorious, with the sun rising from the Aegean, and I sat on the rear verandah of the cottage, plucked tiny apples from the tree in the backyard, saw the sun rising out of the Aegean. We had forgotten to bring tea bags, hence it was a bath and a short walk to Argyro's  taverna. It was St Eustace Day, and kindly ladies on their way back from the church gave us lumps of the bread as 'prasad'. Incidentally the past founder priest of that church was also an Efendras! I noticed that all the pious ladies and men (mostly old) used only two fingers to mark the traditional cross. My old Jesuit school days reminded me that the devout RCs (Roman Catholics) used three fingers to cross themselves, and one such classmates had educated me. The three fingers represented the Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost. When I questioned Evangelos, he clarified that the Greek Orthodox church did not consider the Holy Ghost, hence the two fingers!

 We munched some of that bread with the feta cheese and strong coffee and I learnt my next Greek word- "kalimeri" good day! Evangelos decided he had to visit his ancestral plot of land with its eleven olive trees and one wallnut tree. Soon we were trekking down a rather semi-dangerous trail, beset by brambles and thorny bushes. There was a rest stop at one field where we were offered a few apples, a bunch of ripe grape by some kindly cousin. Few wrong turns, with our ankles protesting the passage through thorns, squeezing through a small gap in barbed wire fence and we were on the hallowed piece of land. Much to Evangelos's chagrin, the olive trees had small olives clearly due to neglect over years. The wallnut tree was completely surrounded by wild undergrowth and the tree itself was under some wild vine. Evangelos has stories about his grandfather came with his young children and wife during harvesting of olives and the family slept under the wallnut tree. He showed me some wild fruits which grew in small bunched on roadside bushes. As we walked uphill, the small berries were a nice follow through to the breakfast. Soon we were back to the taverna. The mayor of the village insisted on showing us a nearby resort, jointly owned by the Ministry of Tourism and by the village that had been lying idle and unutilised over last few years due to bureaucratic red-tape! The short car ride brought us to the resort that had 24 adorable cottages that were rented out for as little as Euro25 per night, peanuts if you consider each cottage has two bedrooms and another sofa outside! The large dining hall and the surrounding area with benches were just crying out to be occupied. As a teacher/trainer I was wondering what it would be like to have a training programme there? We walked back to Argyro's taverna, drinking in the beautiful scenery- red tiled houses with grapes dangling from arbour, the beautiful rolling hills, the olive fields, clear blue skies with autumn clouds and glimpses of the Aegean. 
Lakis had introduced us to a local restaurateur Kostas, who was a sculptor and artist in his spare time. We were invited for dinner jointly by Lakis and Kostas. 
Kostas is a bachelor, lives with his old mother. The entrance had an interesting steel sculpture made from industrial scrap. At the very entrance, he had red wine brewing in two large industrial tanks of 200 litres, and the wine was actually on the tap! What followed was a torrent of Greek in a three-sided conversation between Evangelos, Lakis and Kostas. I used the time to explore Kostas's house and take pictures of his art collection, a virtual treasure trove! Kostas is an self-taught artist who picks up driftwood from the nearby beaches and odd pieces of marble and carves them in to fantastic shapes. The driftwood usually ends up as female figures and the marble pieces in to faces with long streaming hair with some nautical undertones. The evening was glorious with red wine flowing with the conversation, with me participating only in the former! The dinner was a simple affair,starting with hors de oeuvres  of local tomato and cucumber, odd pieces of cheese, squid and sardines, large bread and a glorious chicken roasted by Lakis. What my companions discussed was all Greek to me as usual, and I was busy with the red wine, nectar fit for the gods! in all, a very spiritual evening.
The return trip was rather wistful for me, seemed like paradise lost!
Aqueduct at Xalkida

Seafront at Xalkida

Bridge on the Euripes Strait

Seafront at Xalkida

Dr Evangelos Efendras at the seafront at Xalkida

Seafront at Xalkida

Aristotle was born in Xalkida

Seafront at Xalkida

Church in Papades

Argyro's taverna

Handiwork of Lakis

Handiwork of Lakis

Handiwork of Lakis

Handiwork of Lakis





Cottage where we stayed

Cottage where we stayed

View of taverna at night

View of taverna 

Apples in the backyard of the cottage

Apples in the backyard of the cottage

Enroute to Evangelos's plot of land

Enroute to Evangelos's plot of land



Evangelos's plot of land


Olives

Berries by the roadside

Proud owner of the plot


The fabled walnut tree



Grapes on the arbour

House in Papades

Grave of the sainted priest Afendras (read Alpha-Phi-Nu-Delta-Rho-Alpha-Sigma!!!!)

The resort

In one of the cottages: the village Mayor & Evangelos





Lakis the handiman & designer

Kostas the restaurateur & artist

Inside Kostas's home (recognise the painting on the right??)
Inside Kostas's home

Inside Kostas's home: figurine from driftwood

Inside Kostas's home

Female figure in marble 
Female figure in marble

Female figure in marble

Female figure in marble

Kostas & Evangelos

Steel sculpture from industrial scrap

Figures in marble



Entrance to Kostas's home

L:R- Kostas, Evangelos & Lakis in the foreground

Sunset at Papades